Showing posts with label outback australia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label outback australia. Show all posts

Friday, 16 August 2013

A road less travelled ..... Part 3 ..... Maree to Mungarannie

Had a great night's sleep and started the day reading about Tom Kruse (no, not the actor) the original outback mail-man and a deadset Aussie hero and icon. 



Tom's mail truck on display in Marree

Tom delivered mail and other supplies including fuel and medicine to remote stations from Maree in outback South Australia to Birdsville in outback Queensland. This was a journey of  523 kilometres (325 miles) over roads that were little more than a track including sand dunes. The trip 2 weeks and Tom regularly had to manage break-downs, flooding creeks and rivers, and getting bogged in desert dunes. The documentary Last mail from Birdsville tells the story of Tom.

From Maree we set off up the Birdsville Track. The track was originally a stock route where stockman drove sheep and cattle from stations along the track to Maree and onto Adelaide to market.




Road condition signs are important to check before travelling on outback roads

This is a beautiful but harsh part of Australia and the struggles of the early settlers are evident as we travel along the track and come across ruins. The first just 30 kilometres up the track are the remnants of an old date palm plantation. 



The date palms were planted in 1895 and florished for a little while but as there were no insects around that could pollinate the flowers hand-pollinatation was the only option.  This led to poor crops and then drought and large flocks of birds devastated the crops the plantation was eventually abandoned. 

Another 25 kilometres up the track we stopped at Clayton Station where we had the opportunity to enjoy a spa filled with hot artesian water. It was an amazing experience to sit enjoying the healthy warm waters in the middle of nowhere.



There are camping sites and toilets available where the spa is located but there is also luxury accommodation available at Clayton Station.

Completely relaxed we ventured further along the Birdsville Tack to the old Mulka store ruins. This store and the station it is on have a wonderful history. 





2 children are buried out the back of the ruins both died from pneumonia a simple illness nowadays to cure but in days gone by and in such a remote location it was often a death sentence.



From Mulka we drove onto Mungarannie where we camped in amongst the trees which lined an amazing wetland created by water from the artesian basin. The tranquillity and bird-life were amazing. 



It was also great to be able to have a hot shower, use a clean toilet and enjoy a drink at the Mungarannie Hotel.


The pub had lots of character, the locals were very friendly and we certainly felt welcomed. We wandered back to camp and lit a fire and settled in to enjoy a home cooked meal. 

The Galahs made sure no one needed an alarm clock waking us up bright an early to enjoy sunrise over the wetlands. Its amazing to realise the other side of the wetlands is desert but sand dunes are easily seen in the morning light.



Come tour with us.

Friday, 2 August 2013

A road less travelled .... Part 2 ..... Flinders Ranges to Marree


Today we are heading for Marree where the Oodnadatta track and the Birdsville Track meet. On the way out of the Flinders Ranges we drive through Bunaroo Gorge and Brachina Gorge.  These two gorges are fantastic examples of what nature can create if she is given enough time.





Over periods of time ranging to 600 million years ago this ancient mountain range has weathered away to leave us with some of the most magnificent scenery.The gorges and valleys are just beautiful and its hard to find the words to describe them. 

 

Fossils of sea creatures exist in the rock face as evidence of when this area was a sea bed.  We stopped at one of our regular spots and were incredibly lucky to be rewarded with a sighting of a yellow footed rock wallaby as he tried to hide from us on the rock face. 

Once out of the gorges we hit the bitumen and drove into Parachilna and stopped at the Prarie  Hotel for  a welcome drink. This quirky pub advertises road kill (kangaroo, wallaby and emu) on the menu!

Our next stop was Leigh Creek where we refuelled then travelled towards Lyndhurst where we planned to visit Talc Alf. Alf is an artist who specialises in carving talc stone. His works are unique and some are for sale. He is an amazing person with a wonderful philosophy on life and it would be easy to spend lots of time listening but we need to move on.


We stop at the Ochre Pits on the way and are amazed at the colours in the cliff face. The site is significant as the ochre was traded with Indigenous people from great distances for many different items. 



Next we stop at the ruins of a town called Farina. When you see the ruins its hard to believe this town was still around in 1950. Certainly makes you realise what time and the harsh outback conditions can do.


Its great to see it taking shape as a tourist attraction with great information boards and a good camp area with toilets and showers. 

From Farina Station we head to Marree and set up camp just in time to enjoy a stunning sunset and head to the hotel to enjoy a lovely meal and chat with some of the locals.



Stay tuned for more....

Monday, 29 July 2013

A road less travelled - Melbourne to Flinders Ranges

I'm sitting in the sunshine at Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges. It's 11 a.m. and Shirley and I are in day 3 of another of our outback adventures.

Day 1 was spent travelling from Melbourne to Waikerie in South Australia. Victorian farmland in this area is lovely and green normally at this time of the year, but it was really sad to see so many fields with very little crop growing and hardly any dams anywhere near full.

Farmers really do need all the help we can give them as they are the lifeblood of the country.



By the way if you don't know already when crossing into SA you need to dispose of any fruit so disease isn't spread across borders. Your car will be checked at the checkpoint once in SA.

Waikerie is situated along the mighty Murray River and is a timely spot to stop for the night. it is home to Nippys who make some of the best orange juice, iced coffee and ginger beer around and we stocked up on each for our trip.

Day 2 and it was a cold start to the day as we hit the road again with our destination this afternoon Wilpena Pound Resort. We drive through orange and mandarin groves and vine country then the rolling hills of the SA countryside and of course it pays to stop at roadside stores to pick up fresh mandarins and dried apricots to have as "munchies".

We cross the Murray River via ferry at Cadell. This service runs day and night and is fun to experience and probably less expensive than trying to span the river with bridges at every town.





Next we pass through the town of Morgan and onto Burra and a number of other towns it seems time has forgotten. One of the most telling examples is Terowie where we turn off to head to Peterborough. This town has lots of beautiful old buildings that it seems people have just packed up and abandoned as the town drops off the map.

Driving through we only saw 2 people, a mother and child, who were only too happy to give us a cheerful wave. 

A short drive takes us to Peterborough a fantastic town with magnificent stone buildings. Their Town Hall is heritage listed and claimed to be the largest Town Hall in Counrty South Australia. This town has a history with the Southern Pacific Railway and is still on the train line from Adelaide to Broken Hill and Sydney.

Continuing on the road we come to the town of Orroroo and its amazing sculptures. We turned onto RM Williams way and headed to Hawker. On the way we passed through several one pub towns. The one that sticks out is always Craddock where the old stone pub always looks inviting. We keep saying we will stop there for refreshments but alas we never do and I think we are poorer for not allowing time for it.

Turning off at Hawker we head into the Flinders Ranges and onto Wilpena Pound where we will camp for 2 nights and relax around a welcoming camp fire.





More to follow.....










Monday, 3 June 2013

West MacDonnell Ranges

After spending several days working in Alice Springs we found ourselves with a Sunday which was ours to do whatever we felt like.

We were lucky that the Community market was on in Todd Mall so the start of our day was easy to plan. Coffee at the Red Dog Cafe and a walk around the market before heading out to the West MacDonnell Ranges.  Its an easy drive from Alice west along Larapinta Drive then you turn right onto Namatjara Drive heading towards Glen Helen Gorge.

We have visited this area a lot so we decided to spend some time at some of our favourite spots in the West MacDonnell Ranges. 

Ellery Creek Big Hole was our first stop and the waterhole was as beautiful as ever The Gorge has been carved out from waters flowing into this tributary from the Finke River. The early morning sun shining through the Gorge was just stunning. 




A climb up the rise and I was able to take fantastic photos of the now vulnerable MacDonnell Ranges Cycad. 





This truly is a great spot and its a shame the weather wasn't warmer as a swim would have been beautiful. There were some really adventurous tourists who braved the water (Brits I believe so I suppose the water and air temperature were fine for swimming for them. Brrrrr!)

Further along the road we stopped at the ancient Ochre Pits where local Aboriginals have gathered the many coloured ochres for use in rock, body and bark paintings for thousands of years.  The ochres were so special they were traded with other groups from hundreds of kilometres away. 



Ochre Pits


Our next stop was Ormiston Gorge where we walked through the Gorge opening and relaxed on the rocks which form some of the most comfortable resting spots you can find. Whilst resting  there and staring up at the rocks a beautiful small rock wallaby appeared and for the next 30 minutes or so we watched in amazement as she made her way slowly down the rocky slope to the cool water.


As tourist groups approached the wallaby would stand rock still and none seemed to notice her. For some reason she wasn't disturbed by us as she seemed to know we wouldn't harm her as she gently made her way down. Eventually we decided we didn't want to take any chances of frightening her so we left, leaving her to enjoy her drink alone.



Can you spot the wallaby in the shadow?

It was lunchtime so we headed to Glen Helen Gorge and enjoyed lunch out the back of the resort gazing at the magnificent scenery.



After lunch we walked up the Gorge and relaxed whilst looking at all the birds on the water and chatting to a few other travellers who were sharing the experience. 


It was now time to head back to Alice as we had special plans for sunset. Just behind John Flynn's Grave Memorial is a track that heads through the scrub and up Mount Gillen and from here you have one of the best views of Red Centre sunsets that you could wish for. It is a good hard climb but it is really worth the effort and we definitely recommend it. 



Our day was over but the memories still linger and in this ancient and wonderful area we are certain of one thing, that we will return, because no matter how many times we visit we never cease to be enthralled by all the natural beauty that awaits us.







Saturday, 27 August 2011

Uluru Kata Tjuta


Ask people who are about to head off to Central Australia what they expect the landscape to look like and most will describe the typical desert lots of sand, very little vegetation and hardly any life. Central Australia is far from like this, with several types of landscape and an abundance of flora and fauna, although not always visible.
  Uluru NT Tourism

This is an ancient and spiritual place where around 550 million years ago the basin was involved in a major upheaval which formed a mountain range known as the Petermann Ranges Orogeny. With no plant life at this time bacteria and algae were able to break down the ranges along with normal erosion. As they eroded, the sediments were washed out to form alluvial fans and their remains now form Uluru and Kata Tjuta.
The inland sea disappeared around 300-400 million years ago and another upheaval, now known as the Alice Springs Orogeny, took place and raised the area above sea level. This is also when Uluru and Kata Tjuta were rotated to their present angle.


Kata Tjuta NT Tourism

No-one understands the landscape and its relationship with its surroundings like the traditional owners, the Anangu people. The Anangu identify with 6 different landcapes, each having its own unique habitats and diverse flora and fauna.
Karu is the creekbeds and gullies found around Kata Tjuta at Walpa Gorge and The Valley Of The Winds. Anangu collected grass seeds from native millett and naked woolybut along with wood for tools and firewood from trees such as bloodwood and river redgum.
Puti is the open woodland areas of the park and often have large stands of mulga and other trees such as bloodwood and blue mallee. Shrubs include witchetty bush, wattles, grevilleas and hakeas. Ground cover can be grasses and Spinifex. Honey ants nest after rain and witchety grubs were a favourite food of the Bilby when they inhabited the park. Red kangaroos can sometimes be seen feeding when food is available.
Puli are the rocky gorges and stoney slopes of Uluru and Kata Tjuta and many animals use these areas for shelter, but graze and breed in other habitats. Euro, echidnas and fat tailed antechinus call this type of habitat home along with many birds who come here for shelter and water.
Pila is the spinifex plains that lie between the many sand dunes. They are the home of the desert oak and are the most prolific habitat in the park. Along with spinifex and desert oak you will find bloodwoods, umbrella bushes and honey plants such as the honey grevillea. Spinifex hopping mice and striped and giant desert skinks can be found along with the woma python, blue tongue lizard, emu, bustard and feral animals such as the fox and cat.
Uluru NT Tourism

Tali is the sand dunes, and taking a walk across one in the early morning will reveal a network of tracks left by the nocturnal inhabitants of the region. Spinifex hopping mice and other inhabitants of the Pila also inhabit Tali and some animals such as small skinks and other reptiles live specifically here. The marsupial mole has adapted itself to living under the sand and is completely blind. It is rarely seen and the tracks it leaves just under the surface are extremely hard to spot.
The last habitat is Nyara,the areas left behind after fires. Fires can be caused by natural reasons such as storms, accidentally caused by people or deliberately lit to protect and regenerate areas. Some animals such as spinifex hopping mice like Nyara for foraging for food whilst others will stay away till Spinifex cover returns. Desert raisin, bush tomato and edible grass seeds are part of the regeneration growth that occurs.
Of the more than 400 species of plant life, one is considered to be a threatened species within the park and that is the desert quandong. It is also considered vulnerable within the Northern Territory due to the fact that it is a favourite food of the many wild camels that roam unhindered across the landscape. The Anangu would pick and eat the fruit, which was a great source of vitamins, straight from the bush. Oils from the kernals were used as a conditioner for their hair.
Most of the plants in the park have a use to the Anangu whether as a source of food, medicine or to be used for purposes such as tools, bowls or ceremonial use such as didgeridoos and clapsticks.

Bush medicine NT Tourism

Many of the rare and exotic plants exist around waterholes etc which are also the places frequented by tourists and this has to be considered when talking about looking after the park.
Fauna species within the park number nearly 300 with 28 types of mammal, over 70 reptiles, 180 birds, 4 frogs and 4 types of bats.
Birds range in size from the emu to tiny finches and wrens and they are the most common animals visitors to the park will notice. You may not see them at first but you will hear their sounds as you travel through the park. Remember to look up sometimes as you may see a wedge tailed eagle or other birds of prey circling the skies looking and waiting for their next meal.


Superb Fairy Wren
Reptiles include Kuniya (or woma python) and stimson python both of which are non-venomous. There are 8 types of Liru (poisonous snakes) including the western and king brown snakes. It is best to treat all snakes as venomous and avoid them.
Lizards can be seen as small as 300mm (pygmy goanna) and as large as the perentie which can grow to 2metres in length. A species of dragon that people love to see is the thorny devil and watching one move as they use a gentle rocking motion is incredible.
Red kangaroos are the largest marsupials in the park and they will graze in grassland where spinifex is not as common while the euro prefers rocky areas and might be seen around the slopes of Kata Tjuta. Some mammals such as the small mulgara (about the size of a small guinea pig) live in burrows beneath the sand.
The mala (rufous hare wallaby) was extinct in the park before being reintroduced within a feral animal proof enclosure. It is hoped in time to be able to release them into the general population of the park.
The mala and southern marsupial mole are both classed as endangered along with other animals such as the great desert skink, fawn hopping mice, brushtailed mulgara, princess parrot, emu and the Australian bustard. These animals are being monitored and management programs will be considered.
NT Tourism
Visitors to the park have an important role to play in protecting the natural values of the park for without proper vigilance we can unknowingly bring in unwanted guests. Seeds and burrs love to travel with us, stuck to our clothes and vehicles and we should check both regularly to prevent this from happening.
When in the park we must stay on the pathways as this not only protects the native flora and fauna but also reduces the risk of spreading exotic plants etc. It can also help if we report sightings of feral animals to park staff so that if necessary they can take the appropriate control measures.
The Park is a fantastic asset to Australia and if we all work together to keep it that way it will be there for future generations to enjoy.