A road less travelled .. Part 5 .... Birdsville to Bourke via Innamincka

Leaving Birdsville the next morning we headed to Innaminka; a journey of 420 kilometres which would take us around 7 hours. Our first stop was only a short distance from Birdsville at one of the Burke and Wills slash trees - a reminder of their historical journey and the site of their last camp before entering the Innamincka area. 

In 1860 - 61 Burke and Wills  led an expedition which intended to travel 3,250 kilometres across Australia south from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria in the north.   This was an ill fated journey as they both died near Cooper Creek in June 1861. To find out more search Dig a Burke & Wills research gateway.

Next stop was Cadelga Station;  once a thriving station its now in ruins and forms part of Cordillo Downs.

Next stop was Cordillo Downs Station.  This station once ran around 85,000 sheep and shearers would make the 4.5 hour journey on bicycles to work at what was the largest wool shed at the time. The owners continually struggled with drought and dingoes and in the seventies after dingoes killed virtually every lamb they moved to running cattle. 

The shed is a heritage listed monument to bygone days

We arrived in Innamincka late afternoon looking forward to exploring the surrounding area and in particular seeing more of the sights connected with the Burke and Wills expedition. There are 2 trains of thought regarding this expedition one regards them as great explorers who ran out of luck whilst the other regards Burke as "a bit of a boffin" and a political appointment ill equipped to head such an expedition.

Whichever you believe the fact remains to make a journey of that scale in those times is an incredible feat of endurance. The fact that they missed their support members by a matter of hours is just another disastrous event that affected them.

From Innamincka you can visit "the Dig Tree" where their support crew left supplies for them. Burke's grave site along with Wills are easily accessible as is the site where the rescue team found King the sole survivor in very poor health.  

The Australian Inland Mission Building at Innamincka houses a fantastic display of the history of the mission and many other facts about the history of the surrounding area.

Of course a visit to the Innamincka Hotel is also a must. The bar is full of interesting trinkets left by previous travellers and we had an amazing dinner before retiring back to camp along the Strezlecki Creek.

The creek is currently dry but last time Garry camped at its edge heavy rain turned it into a raging force during the night. This made for an emergency dash back to Innamincka with the water coming up over the bonnet of our Defender when they crossed the creek.

The next morning we followed dingo tracks on the creek bed until we reach Cooper Creek. The Cooper's many channels spread out across a vast area stretching from Queensland to South Australia. Many of these are dry most of the time but when the rains fall its waters flow into Lake Eyre.

Today we were lucky to see a number of pelicans enjoying feeding on the fish within the waters of the Cooper.

After breakfast the next day we were on our way again, this time heading to a couple of outback Queensland towns made famous in poems and songs. We stayed at Thargomindah and then travelled through Cunnamulla, the home of the Cunnamulla fella, and then onto Bourke. Along the way we saw many emus, kangaroos and wedgetail eagles. 

Bourke is said by many to be the gateway to the real outback and this is encapsulated by the saying "back o'Bourke".  The information centre houses an amazing Back o' Bourke show spanning 3 buildings each complex telling elements of the history of the area. 

The next day we returned to see the outback show which was fantastic and lots of fun. It was basically a one man show with authentic bush poetry and demonstrations of how camels, horses, dogs and bullocks were used. 

If you ever get out that way we'd recommend taking the time to see visit both the displays and the shows. Bourke also has a number of other attractions which unfortunately we didn't have time to explore.

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A road less travelled ..... Part 3 ..... Maree to Mungarannie

Had a great night's sleep and started the day reading about Tom Kruse (no, not the actor) the original outback mail-man and a deadset Aussie hero and icon. 

Tom's mail truck on display in Marree

Tom delivered mail and other supplies including fuel and medicine to remote stations from Maree in outback South Australia to Birdsville in outback Queensland. This was a journey of  523 kilometres (325 miles) over roads that were little more than a track including sand dunes. The trip 2 weeks and Tom regularly had to manage break-downs, flooding creeks and rivers, and getting bogged in desert dunes. The documentary Last mail from Birdsville tells the story of Tom.

From Maree we set off up the Birdsville Track. The track was originally a stock route where stockman drove sheep and cattle from stations along the track to Maree and onto Adelaide to market.

Road condition signs are important to check before travelling on outback roads

This is a beautiful but harsh part of Australia and the struggles of the early settlers are evident as we travel along the track and come across ruins. The first just 30 kilometres up the track are the remnants of an old date palm plantation. 

The date palms were planted in 1895 and florished for a little while but as there were no insects around that could pollinate the flowers hand-pollinatation was the only option.  This led to poor crops and then drought and large flocks of birds devastated the crops the plantation was eventually abandoned. 

Another 25 kilometres up the track we stopped at Clayton Station where we had the opportunity to enjoy a spa filled with hot artesian water. It was an amazing experience to sit enjoying the healthy warm waters in the middle of nowhere.

There are camping sites and toilets available where the spa is located but there is also luxury accommodation available at Clayton Station.

Completely relaxed we ventured further along the Birdsville Tack to the old Mulka store ruins. This store and the station it is on have a wonderful history. 

2 children are buried out the back of the ruins both died from pneumonia a simple illness nowadays to cure but in days gone by and in such a remote location it was often a death sentence.

From Mulka we drove onto Mungarannie where we camped in amongst the trees which lined an amazing wetland created by water from the artesian basin. The tranquillity and bird-life were amazing. 

It was also great to be able to have a hot shower, use a clean toilet and enjoy a drink at the Mungarannie Hotel.

The pub had lots of character, the locals were very friendly and we certainly felt welcomed. We wandered back to camp and lit a fire and settled in to enjoy a home cooked meal. 

The Galahs made sure no one needed an alarm clock waking us up bright an early to enjoy sunrise over the wetlands. Its amazing to realise the other side of the wetlands is desert but sand dunes are easily seen in the morning light.

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West MacDonnell Ranges

After spending several days working in Alice Springs we found ourselves with a Sunday which was ours to do whatever we felt like.

We were lucky that the Community market was on in Todd Mall so the start of our day was easy to plan. Coffee at the Red Dog Cafe and a walk around the market before heading out to the West MacDonnell Ranges.  Its an easy drive from Alice west along Larapinta Drive then you turn right onto Namatjara Drive heading towards Glen Helen Gorge.

We have visited this area a lot so we decided to spend some time at some of our favourite spots in the West MacDonnell Ranges. 

Ellery Creek Big Hole was our first stop and the waterhole was as beautiful as ever The Gorge has been carved out from waters flowing into this tributary from the Finke River. The early morning sun shining through the Gorge was just stunning. 

A climb up the rise and I was able to take fantastic photos of the now vulnerable MacDonnell Ranges Cycad. 

This truly is a great spot and its a shame the weather wasn't warmer as a swim would have been beautiful. There were some really adventurous tourists who braved the water (Brits I believe so I suppose the water and air temperature were fine for swimming for them. Brrrrr!)

Further along the road we stopped at the ancient Ochre Pits where local Aboriginals have gathered the many coloured ochres for use in rock, body and bark paintings for thousands of years.  The ochres were so special they were traded with other groups from hundreds of kilometres away. 

Ochre Pits

Our next stop was Ormiston Gorge where we walked through the Gorge opening and relaxed on the rocks which form some of the most comfortable resting spots you can find. Whilst resting  there and staring up at the rocks a beautiful small rock wallaby appeared and for the next 30 minutes or so we watched in amazement as she made her way slowly down the rocky slope to the cool water.

As tourist groups approached the wallaby would stand rock still and none seemed to notice her. For some reason she wasn't disturbed by us as she seemed to know we wouldn't harm her as she gently made her way down. Eventually we decided we didn't want to take any chances of frightening her so we left, leaving her to enjoy her drink alone.

Can you spot the wallaby in the shadow?

It was lunchtime so we headed to Glen Helen Gorge and enjoyed lunch out the back of the resort gazing at the magnificent scenery.

After lunch we walked up the Gorge and relaxed whilst looking at all the birds on the water and chatting to a few other travellers who were sharing the experience. 

It was now time to head back to Alice as we had special plans for sunset. Just behind John Flynn's Grave Memorial is a track that heads through the scrub and up Mount Gillen and from here you have one of the best views of Red Centre sunsets that you could wish for. It is a good hard climb but it is really worth the effort and we definitely recommend it. 

Our day was over but the memories still linger and in this ancient and wonderful area we are certain of one thing, that we will return, because no matter how many times we visit we never cease to be enthralled by all the natural beauty that awaits us.

13 day Melbourne to Alice Springs tour

13 day Alice Springs to Melbourne tour

12 day fully accommodated outback tour Melbourne to Alice Springs

Walking across the Sydney Harbour Bridge

The Sydney Harbour Bridge is an iconic site known all around the world and photographed by everyone who visits Sydney. The Bridge connects the city of Sydney with the North Shore and many people use it to travel to or from the city regularly. Trains, cars, buses and trucks are whizzing across it day and night but you can also enjoy more leisurely  ways to cross the Bridge.

The Sydney Harbour Bridge from the Cahill Walkway

For those who enjoy cycling there is a cycle path which is becoming increasingly popular. My preferred method is walking along the Cahill Walkway which can be accessed via Macquarie Street (opposite the Botanical Gardens), Circular Quay or the Rocks.  

Cahill Walkway

Whilst we were walking we were passed by lots of runners who also use this as a regular way to get to or from work or just as a way to keep fit.

View as we neared the Rocks area

Part way across is an opportunity to get a view from a higher point by taking the 200 steps up to the The Pylon Lookout . There is a small entry fee to the lookout $6.50 for a child or $11 for an adult but the fee is worthwhile as there are a number of points along the climb where you will learn about the history and construction of the Bridge.

View halfway across 

Of course if you're more adventurous and can afford the Bridge Climb its well worthwhile the effort. The night climb allows you to enjoy the lights of Sydney under the night sky, the day climbs stunning views across the Harbour and the dawn climb the sun rising across the city and Harbour.

Arriving on the North Shore

For more information on access points to the Bridge see  Harbour Bridge Map

Milsons Point

Milsons Point is the first suburb across the Bridge and probably most famous for Luna Park but there are also a range of good restaurants and cafes to enjoy. We eat there regularly when we're in Sydney as its much better value for money than restaurants in the city.

Kirribilli 

Kirribilli is also on the North Shore and famous for Kirribilli House, the official residence of the Australian Prime Minister and  Admiralty House the residence of the Australian Governor General.

Also worth a visit are the Kirribilli Markets which are held on the 2nd Sunday of the month with more than 200 stalls selling new and recycled fashion, home and giftware, arts, crafts, plants and gourmet produce.  

The mighty Murray River

Starting its life in the Alps and meandering through New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia to its mouth at Goolwa, the mighty Murray River is 2,500 kilometres long.  The River is fed along the way by several other rivers including the Darling and Murrumbidgee.

Said to be around 130 million years old the Murray and its abundant resources have been used by various indigenous people including the Ngarrindjeri and Nganguraku people.

Courtesy Tourism SA

Today the River is the backdrop and main focus for many holiday makers. Key amongst its attractions are water sports of many kinds. Our family enjoyed water skiing and camping at Picnic Point for many years and we've skied at many other great locations along the River.  Some of the main areas for skiing are Echuca-Moama, Lake Mulwala, Lake Boga near Swan Hill, Tocumwal, Lake Hume and Lake Bonney in South Australia.

A boat license will be required when travelling over 10 knots in NSW Maritime NSW and in South Australia when driving a boat with an engine SA Government

Enjoying a warm day on the River's edge

Another great way to holiday on the Murray River is to hire a houseboat with a group of friends and travel this majestic River. Many people will trail a ski boat behind the houseboat which allows them to enjoy a range of activities.

Travelling the River in this manner you get a chance to enjoy its towering cliffs ancient forests of red river gums and a range of wildlife and birdlife. At night you can pull into seculded sand bars to camp and enjoy the changing mood of the River as night falls.

Courtesy of Tourism SA

Navigating the Murray River requires you to travel through a number of locks and weirs that date back to the 1920s and 1930s This adds to the sense of adventure and interest a houseboat holdiay provides. Murrary River locks, dams, weirs and barrages

You can hire a houseboat at many towns along the river including Echuca-Moama, Mildura, Renmark, Murray Bridge, Waikerie, Morgan and Blanchetown.

Courtesy of Tourism SA



Fresh water fishing is also another popular past time along the length of the River. Murrary Cod is one of the most sought after fish, along with freshwater crays we call yabbies. Brown and rainbow trout are found in the upper regions of the Murray and below Yarrawonga trout cod are found.  You will need a fishing license see NSW fishing license or South Australia Fisheries  depending on which area you are fishing. Fishing from Victoria is covered by a NSW license as the River is within NSW state boundaries.

 Wistaria Cafe Historic Port Echuca

There are a number of historic towns along the River which retain a sense of times gone by. The historic Port of Echuca is one such place to visit. You can wander around the Port, take a ride on a restored paddle steamer or eat at one of the many restaurants or cafes in the area.

Crossing the Murray at Waikerie

Continuing the sense of going back in time a range of ferry crossings still run 24 hours a day, seven days a week. They’re free to use and something we enjoy doing when we're heading to or from outback South Australia.

There are a range of accomodation options along the Murrary River including camping, motels, apartments and houses for rent.

To find out more about the Murrary Region:

Murray River Region Tourism South Australia

Murray River Region Tourism Victoria

Albury Region NSW Tourism

Mungo National Park

Mungo National Park is part of the Willandra Lakes World Heritage area. Located 110 kilometres from Mildura or 316 kilometres from Broken Hill.  Travelling by car from Mildura you will need to travel approx 90 kilometres on dirt although its a well maintained road and not everyone was driving a 4WD.

The landscape is amazing with the centre piece being the Walls of China which are dramatic sand and clay structures sculptured by erosion.

Walls of China

Access to this area has now been restricted not only because its fragile but because of its significant to the Paakantji, Ngyiampaa and Mutthi Mutthi people who call the area home.  

Walls of China (lunette)

These walls formed the edge of what was once a great lake where Aboriginals are recognised as having roamed for 50,000 years. This makes it one of the most important Aboriginal sites in Australia and many important relics have been discovered in the area. Mungo Lady was found in the 1960's by a young geologist Jim Bowler and Mungo Man was found in 1974 by a slightly older Jim.

Mungo Man and Mungo Lady have been estimated to be 40,000 and up to 42,000 years old.  For more information on Mungo Man and Mungo Lady

Remarkable human footprints approx 20,000 years old were discovered in 2003 and many other interesting discoveries have been made over the years.

Aboriginal Discovery Tour

The Paakantji and Ngyiampaa are involved in the care and management of the park together with the NSW National Park and Wildlife Service. They conduct Aboriginal Discovery Tours to share their heritage with visitors. You can only gain access to the Walls of China (lunette) area with a licensed tour operator, traditional owner or Parks Ranger.  Cost is $10 per person for a 2.5 hour tag along tour to the Wall of China area. Tours commence at the Visitor Centre.  Its an amazing experience and fantastic value.

Red Top Tank

You can explore the area via a 70 kilometre one way track that takes you across the lake floor around the Walls of China and through dune and mallie country. There are information signs at points of interest along the way that explain the geological formation of the area, aboriginal history and pastoral settlement of the area.  If you don't have enough time to do this drive a shorter 10 kilometre Zanci Pastoral loop is an option.

Central Beaded Dragon

Wildlife and birdlife are prolific in the park. We observed kangaroos, goannas, emus and a range of birdlife.  We also saw a range of plant life including grasses, saltbush, white cypress pines, belah/rosewood, mallie and acacias.

Kangaroos

In the 1850s the Gol Gol Station was established and the Mungo woolshed was built around 1869. This building still stands and is near the Visitor Centre. The remains of the Zanci homestead, shearing shed and yards can be found along the self drive tour. This was originally part of the Gol Gol Station and was carved off after World War 1. The remains include a dugout where they used to keep their food. Going down into the dugout the temprature drops a number of degrees which makes you understand how effective this structure was.

Zanci yards near the shearing sheds

There are 2 camps in the Park. We stayed at Main Camp as it was close to the Visitor Centre and enabled us to do the Aboriginal Discovery Tour in the evening before heading off to drive the loop the next morning.  The campground includes toilets but showers are only available at the Visitor Centre.

Camp fires are allowed in fire boxes which are provided except during summer (December to March). You are not allowed to pick up wood in the park as it provides a natural habitat for wildlife but you can obtain some for a small fee.

Apostlebirds

The second campground is Belah Camp located half way around the loop. No camp fires are allowed in this campground. Toilets are available at this site. Camping fees are via an honour system and paid via cash left in envelopes at the Visitor Centre.

Sunset at Main Camp

If you don't want to camp accomodation is available in the Shearers Quarters for a reasonable price. These include a communial kitchen and dining room with full access to utensils, crockery, fridges and stoves.  Shearers Quarters are located next to the Visitor Centre.

The Visitor Centre also includes a large display providing a range of insights into the Park its certainly worth spending some time at the Centre.